I went on a solo road trip in Lapland and this is what I learned

About solitude, trust, self-discovery, and deep love for nature.

Sara Gottschalk
8 min readJul 18, 2021
On Saana fell, Finland, image by the author

A few weeks ago, I stumbled across a photo by HerFinland, where Varpu and her newly-wed husband stand among hills in Kilpisjärvi, Finland. The dreamy photo reminded me that even after five years in Finland, I still have not gone further north than the Arctic Circle. I could also sense a profound longing for seeing mountains again; while they were part of my childhood during summer travels, I had not witnessed them in a long long time. But the longing wasn’t just for the mountains, it was also connected to a deep craving for solitude and peacefulness. I imagined that so far north, nature would be most prominent, as opposed to bigger city life where she is so heavily restricted.

I considered my options and realized it was now or never. These days, it has become harder and harder to predict how the future will look like. With climate catastrophes, pandemics, and life changes, who knows when the place, time and resources would ever be right again to go to a place like Lapland.

But I was longing for another thing we well . Last year, I started a more active healing journey. I created Uncovering the Authentic Self, a Medium publication where I uncover and share some of my experiences. I noticed how amidst busy city life and noises, it is often hard to fully relax, calm down and gain access to my authentic inner voice. I keep asking questions such as: “Am I on track?”, “Is this what I really want?”, “What is it that I need?”, but genuine answers remain foggy in the distance, while I feel pulled in so many directions. Going to Lapland would allow me to gain some perspective, I hoped, and create space for my authentic self to surface.

Within a few days, I planned and booked my trip, and excitement accompanied me until it was finally time to hop on the train to Rovaniemi from southern Finland. After the rental car was handed over to me, things became real. I had never rented a car on my own, let alone planned to drive so many kilometers. But I knew this area and trip were unique. It wasn’t just about the traveling either, but equally about doing this alone to establish more trust in myself, to learn to be there for myself in potentially challenging situations, and to take it easy, to explore who I am and who I want to be. It would be part of the healing journey.

After seven nights in Lapland and even one night in Norway, I arrived back in Helsinki and looked at the city with astonishment and a refreshed perspective. My trip had been successful. I felt at peace, confident, grateful and enchanted by the natural beauties I had been so lucky to witness. I will share some of my experiences and learnings during this trip next.

Palojärvi, Finnish Lapland, image by the author

Finnish Lapland in July

I visited Lapland at the beginning of July this year, with my first night in Rovaniemi, and then heading north with one more night along the way, before arriving to Kilpisjärvi, a town right at the border to Norway at the far north-western end of Finland. Kilpisjärvi is surrounded by hills and mountain views, which is unique as otherwise Finland is mostly flat. It is often said that the best time to visit Lapland is in fall, when the vast forests have turned yellow, orange and red, or in winter, when the landscapes have become winter wonderlands and one can easily spot the northern lights. The biggest challenge with visiting Lapland in the summer are the mosquitos. I was bitten numerously and mischievously behind my ear, before I even noticed (and I had prepared myself for them!). Having an accommodation that properly protects you, plus traveling by car, can be essential. Perhaps not surprising in the wake of climate change, Lapland was exceptionally hot when I visited. If you combine that with the fact that the sun never sets this time of year, it can be hard to sleep at night as cottages and hotels are not designed to stay cool. Nonetheless, the nature is magnificent and I felt great delight while driving on these often empty roads through regions covered by forests and lakes, with colors so vivid and sceneries so tranquil it seemed unreal. The occasional rest stops often offered views that indeed needed moments of stillness in order to take it all in.

Breivikeidet, Norway, image by the author

Two magical days in Norway

In Kilpisjärvi, high snow-covered mountains are close. You can see and marvel at them from a distance, enjoy them even from your hotel’s sauna by the lake, but on Finnish land you cannot quite reach them. Still, the landscapes and vegetation around Kilpisjärvi feels different than the rest of Lapland, and it is an amazing experience on its own. I felt very lucky and thankful, however, that I was indeed able to cross the border to Norway during these uncertain times. I spent one night in Tromsø, of which I did not know much beforehand. I had never been to Norway before, and all I wanted this time around was to just see the mountains again. I wished to look at them, feel their magical powers, and store this feeling of wonder deep within, to replenish me, my soul, my own nature. And I was not disappointed. Overwhelming mountain views with lush vegetation, waterfalls, clouds and rain and sun, met me wherever I looked. It was wild and raw, just as I had dreamed. Here it seemed that humans had not quite conquered nature yet. The air was cold and crisp, with the majesty of the arctic so ever present. Arriving to Tromsø took my breath away, perhaps because I had had no expectations. There was something about this city, so far up north, nestled in between those mountains and at the edge of the Norwegian sea. Even though my stay in Norway was just two days with a rushed return to make it back before the border closed again for the night, it was an experience that activated something in me, which I have yet to find words for. Perhaps I never visited Norway before because I knew it would immediately steal my heart.

Tromsø, Norway, image by the author

The freedom to do whatever I want

What I loved most about the trip, aside from the beauty all around, was the freedom of spending my days however I wanted. While I had booked my accommodations beforehand, the details of the day were now fully up to me. Do I want to get up early or late? Should I have food in a restaurant or just buy something from the supermarket? Do I want to stop here or not? Do I need a nap? Do I want to take it easy or go on a hike? Since I can think, going on holidays or traveling took place mostly together with others — my family, friends, partners. It is seen as normal, for various reasons. Going on this holiday alone almost felt like a rebellion. I had heard and witnessed others traveling alone, but it had never been on my list as such, perhaps mostly due to fears regarding challenges that could arise outside and within. But in times of healing and self-discovery, what better to do than exactly face those fears, not in a harsh and pushy kind of way, but with softness, compassion, and care. And it really went well. I deeply enjoyed the freedom, the solitude, nature, the people I occasionally encountered. There was a naturalness to traveling this way, especially in this part of the world and at this time of my life.

Svensby, Norway, image by the author

Always in good company

One of my other fears when previously thinking about such a solo getaway was the fear of feeling disconnected. However, because of previous healing work, this trip, and by gently embracing my fear, I learned that it didn’t have to dictate reality. In fact, I ended up feeling deeply connected. I could finally breathe again. There was room, space, silence. I opened up, which allowed me to experience everything around me more deeply and authentically. I felt in my element, exploring far-away lands this way. I connected with nature. But I also deeply connected with myself. For the first time, I was able to do whatever I wanted during a holiday, which means that for the first time, I was able to fully listen to what I wanted, needed, liked, disliked and could act accordingly without having to explain myself. As a people pleaser, I had learned to always put others first, but now, I was first, and it felt liberating. I found that I really liked my own company and that how I was in the world was absolutely okay.

Saana fell, Finland, image by the author

Moments of inspiration and insights

During this short voyage, I encountered some interesting moments of inspiration and insight. It happened on early mornings when I was the only one on the road, or when I paced on a beautiful yellow beach surrounded by forest, hills, clear waters and nobody else around, or amidst a place filled with people and views and deer on top of a mountain. In these moments, I suddenly saw and felt everything so clearly — what I wanted, needed, and desired to create in the future. These moments of clarity felt empowering because they came from deep within. Truths bubble to the surface if only the waters are let to be undisturbed. It is hard for me to find such serenity and lucidity in busy human environments, perhaps for many of us it is. We have so much work to do to keep our planet alive and help it thrive again, to keep our home intact. I have always wondered what my part could be in this, and I believe that finding access to my authentic self is a key element. Through this trip, I came one step closer again, for which I am deeply grateful.

Kilpisjärvi, Finland, image by the author

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Sara Gottschalk

Friendly human. Highly-sensitive. Thinks about personal growth and sustainable wellbeing. Happy with plants, animals, friends and sometimes strangers.